Where Should Gay Travelers Stay in Marrakech? Medina vs Gueliz
Marrakech is a fascinating city, but for gay travelers, where you stay can make a big difference to how comfortable your trip feels. After visiting Marrakech multiple times, here’s what we wish we knew about where to stay before our first visit.
One of the biggest questions we had before visiting Marrakech was: Where should we stay? Before our first trip, we did some research on Marrakech and its neighborhoods. But to be completely honest, nothing we read online prepared us for the reality once we landed.
As we drove from the airport toward the center of Marrakech, we were honestly speechless. The contrast was immediate. It felt like night and day, completely different from what we had imagined. Maybe that makes us a little naive, but when we thought about Marrakech, we pictured traditional riads, narrow alleys filled with souks and spices, and that classic Moroccan atmosphere you see in photos. Which, in the Medina, it was the case but not everywhere.
Marrakech actually has two very different worlds: the Medina and Gueliz, and choosing between them can completely shape your trip. So let’s dig in so you can arrive much more prepared than we were lol.
If you're wondering whether Morocco is safe for gay travelers overall, we shared our full experience in another article here:
👉 Gay Travel: Our Honest Experience Traveling Morocco as a Gay Couple
Medina vs Gueliz: The Quick Answer
If you’re short on time, here’s the simple breakdown! Both areas can work for gay travelers, they simply offer very different experiences, which we breakdown more below.
Stay in Gueliz if you prefer:
• modern hotels and apartments
• international restaurants and nightlife
• wider streets and easier navigation
• a more cosmopolitan atmosphere
Stay in the Medina if you want:
• traditional Moroccan architecture
• riads and historic guesthouses
• walking access to souks and landmarks
• a more immersive cultural experience
What Is the Medina?
The Medina is the Marrakech most travelers imagine: narrow alleyways, bustling souks, and centuries-old architecture. Cars rarely enter the Medina, so most exploration happens on foot through winding streets filled with shops, markets, and small cafés. It is the historic heart of Marrakech and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All of the major tourist attractions are here as well.
When Omie and I first visited Marrakech in 2022, we stayed in the Medina. The accommodation we chose was a traditional riad, and it was exactly the Moroccan experience we wanted! As you might know, riads are traditional Moroccan homes converted into guesthouses built around peaceful interior courtyards. Our riad had a pool in the middle and this gorgeous rooftop with breathtaking views, where we had breakfast. Also, we didn’t know this at the time, but it’s also gay-owned, which made us feel extra safe!
You’ll see this firsthand, but staying in the Medina feels like stepping into another world. For us, waking up inside a quiet riad and then walking out into the energy of the souks was one of the most memorable parts of the trip. You honestly can’t get it anywhere else, and that’s what we loved. It was, and always will be, unique to Marrakech.
However, keep in mind that depending on the riad or stay you choose, you might find the Medina overwhelming. It can get very busy, especially during the peak tourist seasons (Mar–May, Sep–Nov). The streets are crowded, navigation can be confusing, and the environment can get chaotic fast. But as you’ll see below, you can find ways to enjoy the Medina while also not being in the craziness all the time.
What is Gueliz?
Now, let’s talk about the other part of Marrakech not many know of at first: Gueliz!
Gueliz is often called the “New City” or the “French Quarter” of Marrakech. Built during the French colonial period, this area feels far more modern than the Medina. For us, it felt like Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles, but with a Moroccan twist. Think wide boulevards, international hotels, contemporary cafés, art galleries, and modern restaurants/nightlife. We saw more fancy cars here than other places around, so it’s really, really different than the Medina. It’s a more European atmosphere, and the most fascinating part is that the majority of locals here speak French. Someone even told us that speaking Arabic is looked down upon in Gueliz, which we thought was interesting.
For many gay travelers, Gueliz feels more familiar and easier to navigate. English and French are widely spoken, and the atmosphere is more cosmopolitan. This environment can feel slightly more relaxed simply because it attracts more international visitors. And by no means is it chaotic, like at all.
Is the Medina or Gueliz Better for Gay Travelers?
Okay, here’s the thing: After multiple visits, we can safely say that we loved our experience in the Medina the most. It was genuinely the Morocco we wanted to be enveloped by, and there’s really nothing like it! The second time we visited Marrakech, we stayed outside of the Medina, just before Gueliz, and we found that to be a very pleasurable experience as well because we could walk to the chaos while still enjoying the quiet and peace of mind we wanted.
But the truth is that both areas can work perfectly well for gay travelers. The reason why Gueliz is often more desirable is because it can feel safer due to the international hotel chains located there. However, if you find a respectful and accepting riad or stay, you can have a safe experience in the Medina.
Beyond where you stay, the most important thing to understand is that Morocco is a culturally conservative country, so discretion in public spaces is expected, even for straight couples.We talk more about our experience here.
In the end, your comfort level will likely depend more on the type of environment you prefer rather than safety concerns alone. But Omie and I will say this: if you have the chance to experience a riad, even just once, we highly recommend it.
Planning Your Trip to Marrakech?
The Gay Traveler’s Guide to Marrakech (PDF)
We created a 12-page Gay Traveler’s Guide to Marrakech designed specifically for LGBTQ travelers.
Inside the guide we share:
✔ the riads and hotels we personally stayed in
✔ a deeper breakdown of the Medina vs Gueliz
✔ things to know before you visit & LGBTQ safety tips
✔ restaurants, hammams, and experiences we loved
Final Thoughts
Despite its current LGBTQ+ laws, Marrakech is a very fascinating place and one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever visited. Outside of the rich history and amazing architecture, the people are some of the kindest we’ve come across. It really goes to show that Omie and I have known to be true, which is that locals often don’t reflect their government. And that’s the case in Marrakech.
For gay travelers, the key is simply understanding the cultural context and choosing accommodations that make you feel comfortable. Whether you stay in the Medina or Gueliz, Marrakech offers an unforgettable travel experience.
As always, happy, safe travels!
Davey & Omie
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
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If it’s your first visit to Marrakech, we recommend staying in the Medina to experience the historic heart of the city. Choosing a well-reviewed riad with welcoming hosts can make the experience unforgettable. (We share the riads and hotel we stayed in inside our Marrakech Guide).
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One of the biggest questions gay travelers ask before visiting Marrakech is whether they should stay in a riad or a hotel.
Riads are one of the most unique parts of visiting Morocco. These traditional homes are often beautifully restored and offer an intimate, authentic experience. However, many riads are small, family-run properties. Because of this, attitudes toward LGBTQ travelers can vary depending on the hosts.
Hotels, especially international chains, operate under global hospitality standards and may feel more predictable for gay travelers.
We recommend both! Stay in a riad for a few days, just to experience it, then move to a hotel.
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We discuss this in detail in our other article (see here). If you are respectful of the cultural norms, then you should be completely fine. But if you’re still nervous, please feel free to email or message us! x
